Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
